Catching Katchathanburi
We had dinner on our porch. Our porch was attached to our guesthouse. Our guesthouse floated on the river, just on the edge of the bend. We watched the sun hid, blushing, among the reeds across the green waters.
Katchathanburi was cool because:
Joe and I rented bikes. Less traffic than Ayutthaya (and therefore less instances of Joe shitting in his pants at his near misses with the front side of dented bumpers) means we have the luxury of gliding around town. We pedaled along the river, found ourselves in a WWII cemetery, made our way past the wats and squares, and circled around the dirt roads and cafes and finally, the night market.
The night market – where vendors set up all sorts of plastic goodies and cheap designer rip-offs.. and food! Earthy soups, spicy salads, roast and boiled and grilled and skewered meats, fried grasshoppers and larvae and insects, teas and coffees and shakes, rice and puddings, noodles and sauces, breads and fruits galore. The entire town descended on the market once the sun dropped out of sight, stuffing their faces on the cheap... I found a new favorite dish: steamed chicken and rice with a side of broth, simple but in the right hands: nirvana.
Eleven am and we were clambering over rocks and tree trunks at Erawan Falls, a waterfall that cascaded over a series of steppes – 7 in total. On the fourth level, round boulders make for great natural water slides. We followed this procedure: Climb up. Stare down at the pool 4 feet below. Let go. Slide down the waterfall and (remember to hold our noses) do a bellyflop, feet entry, or head dive into the lagoon. Shout our yahoos. Repeat. The river fish massaged our bodies: hungry, they nibbled our shins and calves and feet whenever we floated still. Unpleasant, but surreal.
One pm and Joe had his first elephant ride – across the shallow part of the River Kwai. His grin stretched from ear to ear. Reminiscent of Laos and the look on Cgirl's face during our elephant baths.
Three pm and Joe and I jumped off our bamboo raft (at the insistence of our guide) and floated down the River Kwai. Three-twenty pm and we were short for breaths, heaving ourselves back onto the raft – swimming up-current to get back to the safety of the raft as the rapids approached – it took a lot out of us city boys.
Six pm – rode on the rickety train on the railroad where so many sacrificed their lives unwillingly. We stood between the cars and stuck our heads out as the fields, valleys and afternoon galloped passed. The train belched purple smoke when rumbling over the wooden bridge. At each station back to Katchathanburi, hordes of school-kids got off to go home – had the funny if not comforting realization that this railway with all of its history is in regular use by the Thais.. by children, everyday.
Found an awesome vendor near a massage parlor who makes the best milk tea. Ever. She puts the tea in a plastic bag of crushed ice and sticks in a straw. Cost: a quarter.
Had dinner (bought from the night market) of four courses and drinks for $4. We had dinner on our porch. Our porch was attached to our guesthouse. Our guesthouse floated on the river, just on the edge of the bend. We watched the sun hid, blushing, among the reeds across the green waters. Mid-meal, a floating barge supporting a karaoke stage and restaurant floated pass – the crooners waved in response to our yelled hellos, then continued to imitate the worst singers on the planet earth until the late hours of the night.
The train back to Bangkok jostled into the dilapidated station as the sun peeked over the cornfields.
Katchathanburi was cool because: it wasn't Bangkok, that city of concrete and sweat.