Oh My-Asia

Malaysia has some really nice folks. A ticket agent wouldn't sell me a ticket and referred me to the actual ferry operators since he "wasn't sure the ferry was running and wouldn't want to sell me a useless ticket". A motor taxi guy had me in conversation without offering his services. A woman advised me on the best dish at a restaurant. Such a change from Vietnam, where it seems everyone is out to make a buck.

Crossed into Malaysia today.  I exchanged Cinderella for her ugly step-sister. But I found that the ugly step-sister has a good personality.

It seems Malaysia deliberately thumbs her nose at her southern neighbor by keeping her border with Singapore in disarray and in derelict. Crossing the border transported me into a utterly different zone. I exchanged wide tree-line boulevards for bumpy highways, gleaming skyscrapers with squatting gray tenements, and sparkling streets with debris-infested roads. Finally, some personality.

Gone are the signposts of a fully developed society: slick malls, fashion advertisements, and luxury cars. I certainly picked a great country to strike out on my own. Gone are the girls in low rises, glistened lips, and haute couture. Replace them with women in headscarves and natural make-up – that is, sweat-glistened foreheads absolved of any makeup. Yep, Muslim country after all.

The express bus got to Mersing in 3 hours. Then another 3 hours layover as I waited for the ferry to Pulau Tioman to depart. The white sands, coral reefs, and beachside chalets would have to wait. The tides were low, and we waited until sunset before departing.

Tumbled into a fan-cooled room for 40 ringgit. The beaches dark, the skies alit by stellar candles. Lightning combusted in the distant shadows. Had a dinner of grilled prawns and squid for 17 ringgit – freshly caught and cooked before the table.  Beer and smoke. Tomorrow is exploration.