Travels

We got lost in the fluttering flags of the stupa adjacent to the monastery – the reds and greens and yellows made flapping sounds in the light air, like chants afloat on the mountain winds.

Wild horses nipped each other, neighed, and took off across emerald pastures.  Mountains, stereo-typically and wonderfully craggy and snow-capped, jutted their pointy chins in defiance of the sky.

I am feeling a bit better, however. Just splurged on a nice hotel -- stellar dining, swimming pool, down comforters (!) ... now I just have to find that $5 massage and I'm back to roughing it.

Internet's a bitch in China. Can't access blogspot, NY Times or other western media sources (well, the connection to them is so slow sometimes that it's not worth it).

There are some serious mountain ranges to cross on the road back from Deqin.  At our highest point, we were about 3.5 miles above sea level.  The road pretzeled and rhombused.  At certain points, the mountains devoured the pavement, leaving only gravel and dirt.

What he offered was something we could do on our own, so I declined. I gave him a chance, I thought. Then the surprise – the miracle – occurred.  Instead of perseverance, I met affirmation.  There was no pestering, no cheaper prices, no customization, and no further add-ons that I wouldn't want.